(c) Time Out 2006
Alan Emmins: homeless in London
Alan gets to sleep in his makeshift cardboard bed In 2004, author
Alan Emmins lived homeless and penniless in New York to write a
book that captured, without drama and urban myth, the reality of
life on the street. Last month we asked him to repeat the task,
and spend seven nights sleeping rough in London.
Wednesday 13th
I had completely forgotten about the boredom. Homelessness, not
much fun at the best of times, is a time stopper when you’re
without a companion. Since leaving the Time Out offices on Tottenham
Court Road I have ambled restlessly.
Normally, when in the city alone, I go to a café and eat
lunch. I make phone calls. I go shopping. Today I walk up and down
Charing Cross Road six times. I queue in a McDonald's on Oxford
Street for the use of their toilet. I sit in Soho Square watching
students conduct surveys. . It's 3.45 pm; I've normally had lunch
by now
It's late in the evening, around midnight, maybe later, when I
find myself walking down Villiers Street towards the Embankment
tube station. There are only a few people about, but when it starts
raining heavily they quickly disappear. I take shelter in the doorway
of the Pompidou Patisserie, which has been kind enough to leave
the sun shade down.
The rain, getting heavier and heavier, bombs the pavement creating
a wall of sound. Just as the first flashes of lightning fill the
sky a man, smartly dressed and carrying a shoulder bag and umbrella,
stops in the doorway. “Are you homeless?” he asks
I am not into naff plot tricks, but there really is lightning in
the sky and when it flashes and turns the man into a dark silhouette,
I too think it is ridiculous, a lazy Hollywood film trick.
I am slow in answering. I don't want to talk to anybody on my first
night. I want to acclimatise first, to be alone. I certainly don't
want to explain my project now, late on a stormy night, to a silhouetted
man. Being homeless in London scares me enough. In New York, I was
always a bit of a novelty, my English accent cut me a lot of slack.
Here in London my accent holds no value. So not wanting to explain
myself, I lie, I say, “Yes, I'm homeless” thinking this will be
his queue to move on and leave me alone.
“You lying cunt!” the man screams. “You ain't fucking homeless,
I should rip your fucking face off you cunt.”
While the level of aggression is shocking, I can't fault him: after
all, I am not homeless. It was naïve of me to think that my
being slumped in a doorway with a backpack and a sour expression
might be worth something in the way of validation. The man starts
to walk up the hill, shouting as he goes, “I'm gonna come back here
and fucking kill ya while I your sleeping. Y-o-u…”
Normally, when in the city alone, I go to a café and eat
lunch. I make phone calls. I go shopping. Today I walk up and down
Charing Cross Road six times. I queue in a McDonald's on Oxford
Street for the use of their toilet. I sit in Soho Square watching
students conduct surveys. . It's 3.45 pm; I've normally had lunch
by now.
It's late in the evening, around midnight, maybe later, when I
find myself walking down Villiers Street towards the Embankment
tube station. There are only a few people about, but when it starts
raining heavily they quickly disappear. I take shelter in the doorway
of the Pompidou Patisserie, which has been kind enough to leave
the sun shade down.
The rain, getting heavier and heavier, bombs the pavement creating
a wall of sound. Just as the first flashes of lightning fill the
sky a man, smartly dressed and carrying a shoulder bag and umbrella,
stops in the doorway. “Are you homeless?” he asks
I am not into naff plot tricks, but there really is lightning in
the sky and when it flashes and turns the man into a dark silhouette,
I too think it is ridiculous, a lazy Hollywood film trick.
I am slow in answering. I don't want to talk to anybody on my first
night. I want to acclimatise first, to be alone. I certainly don't
want to explain my project now, late on a stormy night, to a silhouetted
man. Being homeless in London scares me enough. In New York, I was
always a bit of a novelty, my English accent cut me a lot of slack.
Here in London my accent holds no value. So not wanting to explain
myself, I lie, I say, “Yes, I'm homeless” thinking this will be
his queue to move on and leave me alone.
“You lying cunt!” the man screams. “You ain't fucking homeless,
I should rip your fucking face off you cunt.”
While the level of aggression is shocking, I can't fault him: after
all, I am not homeless. It was naïve of me to think that my
being slumped in a doorway with a backpack and a sour expression
might be worth something in the way of validation. The man starts
to walk up the hill, shouting as he goes, “I'm gonna come back here
and fucking kill ya while I your sleeping. Y-o-u…”
Thursday 14th
Waking up is a big surprise. In New York I hadn’t slept
at all on the first night, or for many nights thereafter. Even then
it was never sleep, sleep. So while I feel relieved and a little
excited to have survived my first night in London, to have slept
even, I wake up exhausted and already sore.
I sit dozing in and out of sleep on Trafalgar Square at 7am. I
watch as two people feed pigeons from big sacks. It seems like madness
to me, this pigeon feeding. Going by the behaviour of the pigeons
it seems like madness to them too. They swoop and dive and swirl
in great packs, like something from Patrick Neate’s London
Pigeon Wars.
A man approaches the pigeon feeders and says something. One feeder
turns to the other, “I don’t understand what he’s
saying, do you speak any Russian?”
I don’t speak any Russian either, but going by the young
man’s incredulous expression at the sight of two people feeding
pigeons on a mass scale, I am pretty sure I could, with some accuracy,
translate his meaning, if not his actual words.
In fear of being shat on I get up and walk towards Soho Square.
I while away most of the day dozing on a bench.
Down on the Strand at 11pm a homeless crowd stands waiting for
a scheduled food drop.
One homeless man looks at me as I shuffle on my feet. “It
will be here,” he says. “They’re just running
late.”
The man, I am guessing mid-forties wearing a lumberjack shirt
over a grey T-shirt, seems friendly and talkative. His name is Michael.
He doesn’t flinch when I tell him about my project. Instead
he asks where I slept last night.
“Look,” he says. “I am sleeping near hear in
a theatre doorway, there’s a few of us there, but the guy
who has the middle doorway is away, he’s gone to Basingstoke
for three weeks, you can take his space if you like?”
Friday 15th
The Strand has food drops most nights of the week. Tonight the
crowd is well over one hundred people. When the food arrives I am
surprised by the neat and orderly queue that forms. Any shouting,
pushing or shoving tends to come from people after they have collected
their steaming polystyrene parcel.
I start talking to a homeless man called James who, in his late
twenties, peers out from under a fishing hat. James and I walk back
along the Strand to find a doorway where we can sit and eat.
James asks me for the names of other publications I have written
for; I mention the New York Post.
“Is that the same as the Washington Post?” he asks.
“Not quite,” I tell him. “The Washington Post
is more credible.”
“Would Noam Chomsky think it was credible?”
“Would Noam Chomsky think any newspaper was credible?”
James laughs. I sit wondering, are we really discussing Noam Chomsky?
If we are it’s going to be a short lived conversation, my
knowledge of the bugger is very limited.
At this point a youngish guy, over weight with cropped hair and
dark sunken eyes, who was also involved in the fight on Trafalgar
Square, stops in front of me.
He points a finger at my face and screams as loud as he can, “YOU!
What’s you’re fucking name?”
“Alan,” I tell him as he stands staring angrily down
at me. “What’s yours?” I ask, trying to keep things
chatty. I watch as pure rage spreads across his face. “I was
only going to say hello,” I tell him, offering him my hand.
He stares angrily for a while and then very daintily shakes my hand,
or really just the finger tips and says, quite calmly, “Danny.”
Relief washes over me as Danny says, again calmly, “Give
me a light.”
“Sorry,” I tell him. “I don’t smoke.”
“GIVE ME A FUCKING LIGHT!” he screams, bending into
the shout.
Two of his friends come over. One, a girl I realise now and who
I also (but thinking it was a boy) saw fighting earlier, turns and
kicks the metal grill right next to James’ head. A nasty metallic
crash fills the night. The girl keeps kicking.
James looks up between kicks and says, “Do you mind, I’m
leaning against that.”
The girl bends into James’ face screaming, “I don’t
fucking give a shit!” and goes back to kicking.
Danny is still shouting at me, though all I can hear is the crash
of the metal grill.
James turns to me and with a slight grin asks rather loudly, “So
have you read much Chomsky?”
I stare at him half frozen with fear; expecting any second to
feel the full wrath of junky rage. But then I have another thought,
James told me he’s been homeless for nine years, he must know
better than me.
“I’ve read one of his books,” I tell him.
“I’ve read a few,” he tells me. “There’s
a good web site you should look into, where you can read all his
articles. I’ll give you the url.”
For the first minute of the conversation Danny continues to shout
at me while his female doppelganger continues to kick the metal
grill as hard as she can. She turns and says something to Danny,
who screams back at her a torrent of expletives. She does the same
back to Danny and very quickly they are in their own shouting match.
A minute later they walk down the road, towards Trafalgar Square,
not arm in arm, but peaceful at least.
I giggle nervously at James, “I thought that was going to
turn into a fight then.”
“Nah, as long as you don’t say anything to them they
soon get bored and move away. That’s the important thing,
don’t say anything, But I said something, I couldn’t
believe I was opening my mouth, I was so annoyed with myself when
I heard my voice. Because these fuckers will stick a screwdriver
in you without hesitation.”
“Really?” I ask.
“I’ve seen it happen!” James assures me.
Back in the doorway of the Theatre Royal, (currently showing the
Producers) I wake up at 4am. I watch as a young skinny guy with
a can of beer peers into the doorways. He comes up close and stares,
first to the un-named man in the furthest door, then Richy (who
has returned from Basingstoke but said it is okay for me to stay)
then me (as I pretend to be asleep) and then on to Marijona and
Michael. He then scurries off down the road suspiciously.
That’s one of them, I think in a moment of paranoia. Now
they know where I’m sleeping. I lie awake and scared, until
the sky starts to lighten.
Saturday 16th
One homeless guy tells me Hyde Park is a safe place to sleep.
He says, “You have to hide inside at midnight, when the wardens
come to lock the gates,” Fair do’s. I stop off at Marble
Arch first, thinking I will sit and catch up with some notes. When
I get there I am greeted by a large yellow sign. It says ‘MURDER’.
We are looking for witnesses, can you help?
MURDER
On the 30th of August at about 00.30am a male was assaulted near
to the subway entrance to Marble Arch. He died from his injuries.
In strictest confidence, please phone 0207 321 7228
I walk back through the subway tunnel and ask a young homeless
guy with long hair, a beard and a smattering of low denomination
coins at his feet if he knows anything about this murder. Specifically,
I ask him if it was a homeless man that was murdered?
“Yeah, I think it was,” he tells me.
The murder is two weeks old. It could be the only murder in this
area in the last ten years, but still I don’t like the odds.
I tell myself in one breath that I am being silly, it’ll be
okay to sleep here. Then I slap myself on the side of the head:
think wife, think daughter, and I start walking, quickly, back towards
the Strand and another night treading the boards, or the steps should
I say, of the Theatre Royal.
On the theatre steps Michael is teasing Marijona about the likelihood
of him getting an apartment. Marijona holds a piece of paper with
apartment listings, he asks, “What does it mean, this 280
points?”
“It’s like this,” Michael begins. “You
need a lot of points to get a welfare apartment. If you’re
a young girl and have nowhere to live, you get points. If you are
an old lady without a home you get even more points. If you are
a young girl and pregnant or with a child, you get even more points.”
“What about me?” Marijona asks. “What is my points?”
“You,” Michael laughs. “A single working foreign
male? You have no points.”
As we sit there laughing, with our cardboard beds set out for
the evening, a group of young boys turn the corner and walk towards
us. They are smartly dressed, like Ben Sherman adverts and though
out in the big city haven’t quite mastered the art of hair
gel. As they pass, the lad at the back, while keeping his legs and
hips in a forward motion, turns his upper body and his spiky little
head towards us and says, thumbs raised, “Alright boys?”
To signify that this is not a rhetorical question he arches his
eyebrows, he says, “Sweet as a nut?”
Some time passes before the four of us have control of our laughter.
4am. The streets of London, or at least Covent Garden… no,
let narrow that down further, Catherine-Bloody-Street should be
clean enough to eat off. Is it really possible that those little
road-sweeping buggies, with their awful racket, are passing by my
head every thirty minutes? Or am I at this point just going mad?
Is it a bad dream? I grab my camera from my backpack and without
sitting up take a quick picture as yet another one scrapes its way
by. I must be sure its real.
Sunday 17th
After a quick wash in the 24 hour toilets opposite the Punch &
Judy in Covent Garden, Michael, Richy and myself head off for a
number 25 bus. We wait for one of the ‘Bendy Buses’
or the ‘Homeless Express’ as Michael likes to call them
on account of being able to step on and off without a ticket. We
take the bus to Bank. From there we walk, with the intention of
catching another bus, to London Bridge. But a lack of Homeless Express’s
forces us to cross the bridge by foot. We cut through the main station
and enter a maze of back roads, (passing through one of the worst
urine smelling stairwells in the world) weaving our way to Mellor
Street and the Manna Centre, which is a day centre that is open
five mornings a week, including weekends.
As we enter we are handed a bowl of porridge. Richy and I (Michael
goes off to shower) collect a cup of tea and sit at a table along
the right hand wall. Our eating is fast and sloppy. After which
Richy sits reading the Racing Post, scribbling his picks on the
front cover. I sit and watch the room, which is deep, tatty and
packed with around 100 people.
Somebody brings out boxes and places them in the middle of the
floor. There’s a rush as people go through them, searching
for things they need like quilts, shoes etc.
Exhausted already I start drifting, am about to nod off, when…
“Sorry, what was that?” I hear myself asking to the
man opposite. He sits with a shaved head and a black T-shirt tucked
into his jeans, listening to an old walkman that he has clipped
to his belt.
“What?” he says back to me.
“Oh, sorry, I thought you said something,” I say feeling
stupid.
Very quickly, I feel stupider. It’s Richy’s giggling
that gives it away. The man had been talking to himself, and I tried
to answer him.
“Oh,” the man says. “I was… it was…
I was just saying… you know,” and with that he too has
a little giggle and goes back to his music.
A minute later he leans forward and points at me, “Have you
heard Madonna’s new album?” he asks.
“No,” I tell him, “I haven’t.”
Now, with what I believe to be a trace of Scottish, he says, “Yooo
should get ya’self a copy, it’s fucking greeeeeaat!”
Michael appears with little pieces of tissue stuck all over his
face.
The three of us move to the back of the room where a group of men
sit around a bright yellow-topped table playing chess. While I sit
falling in and out of sleep, Michael and Richy manage to play several
games while we wait for lunch. The standard of chess seems pretty
high. I am offered a game but decline, knowing it will be no fun
for my opponent.
The smell of food fills the air and I look up to see plates of
pasta with meat sauce and sausage bobbing in different directions
around the room.
There’s a lot of pasta and rice in this business, carbs a
plenty.
We eat quick and take our leave. Richy is keen to get to Ladbrokes
on Trafalgar Square, he doesn’t want to miss the first races.
Monday 18th
Monday to Saturday we have to wait for the theatre crowd to leave
before we can make our beds. (If I were truly homeless it would
be safe to say I have well and truly moved in moved into this space
for good.) Then we have to wait for the crowd from the pub opposite
to go home before we can get any sleep. Tonight we kill an hour
or so playing chess with a small travel chess set.
After getting a thrashing from Michael and then beating Richy
by making all the moves Michael calls out over my shoulder, I find
myself in an architectural quandary. I am trying to build a little
card wall, for privacy. But I am having problems: the card I have
selected is too long and falls down easily. Michael and Richy offer
advice.
“No, no, no, not like that,” Michael says as I take
an un-flattened wine box and make a split half way down one of the
long sides. I then feed the length of card I want to use as my wall
into the torn slot. The box works as a stabiliser and my wall holds
firm.
“Oh, that’s pretty smart,” Michael says and we
all laugh at my little camp.
Richy sets his alarm for 5:30am.
He says, “I am off to Woking in the morning to sell the
Big Issue.”
“Why do you always go out of town?” I ask.
“It’s easier,” he tells me. “There are
too many Big Issue sellers and beggars in Central London, it makes
it too hard. It’s not worth it. I go all over, Basingstoke,
Romford.”
Richy and I bid each other farewell and get down to the business
of sleeping.
When a group of Japanese men, wearing suits and ties, come and
take over the steps between the doorways where Michael, Richy and
I are trying to sleep, I am a little pissed to say the least. I
am exhausted. In fact having not got close to a normal night's sleep
since coming out to the streets all I do now is doze in and out
of reality. Every time I stop moving I fall asleep. Whether I sit
on the floor, on a bench or lean against the wall, my eyes start
fluttering. What sleep I do get at night, I look forward to.
But the Japanese are loud and drunk and partying right next to
my head. One second they kick over their half-full wine bottle,
the next they are dropping and smashing glasses. One of them even
goes as far to try and take a piece of my card.
“Hey!” I say. “What do you think you’re
doing?”
He speaks English now, “Oh, sorry mate, sorry.”
The Japanese, known for their manners, don’t appear perturbed
by the fact that there are three people trying to sleep. In fact
I find it hard to believe, given their shouting, that they are not
being purposely loud. After about thirty minutes I hear Michael
fidgeting. I am expecting him to say something, but he doesn’t,
he is soon still again. Whatever hint he dropped worked. A few minutes
later the drunken Japanese men move on.
Tuesday 19th
Michael and I sit on the steps of the theatre at 7am.
“Did you notice I got rid of the Japanese last night?”
he asks.
“Yeah, I did. How did you manage that?”
“I took my socks off.”
We sit there laughing.
My main thought though, is with the fact that I am done. Today,
day number 7, I am going home, or at least to my sister's house
so I can get cleaned up and sleep. I think it’s a good thing
I am stopping now. My feet really hurt. My underpants are the things
of experiments and the delicate skin tissue between my testicles
and my thighs is very sore, I guess my greasy under-crackers have
been sticking while I walk (I am so glad I am married and don’t
have to worry about any potential lovers reading this).
I have a stiff neck.
I have tummy troubles too. Dietary issues. Meaning I haven’t
had a shit in four days.
Sure, I could go to the Berwick Street Market tomorrow at closing
time and get free fruit. I could go to the Manna Centre and get
showered, pick up a pair of fresh under garments. But really…
The two occasions I have lived homeless have been by my own choice,
part of a journalistic endeavour. They have not been stress-free,
rather fear-ridden. For those of you that question the morality
of these projects, of my eating food from soup kitchens, food meant
for the homeless, I can assure you my activities had zero effect
on the survival of the homeless. My doing this without money was
not out of a sense of challenge, but simply because I don’t
believe a true recording of homeless life can be made any other
way. If I had money in my pocket I would have eaten in Pret A Manger,
instead of from their garbage bags. When the fear got really bad
I would have hidden in a cinema. The truth is, I couldn’t
do it with money in my pocket, I am too weak.
One defining area, during my short experience on the streets, where
London differs from New York, is the level of aggression. London
is plainly more aggressive. I am not talking about the homeless
but the average man on the street. The Englishman, when you have
the time to sit and look, is a bit of a Neanderthal. He walks around
in a permanent state of alert. Part of a ‘who you looking
at’ culture that doesn’t really exist anywhere else.
I remember watching one man leave a McDonalds with his wife and
two children. He walked stiff-limbed and tight-faced, swinging his
arms and legs while surveying the area for potential enemies. A
Chas ‘n' Dave song sprang to mind: Gertcha! New York is aggressive,
don’t get me wrong, but the aggression has become part of
the city's personality. It never really goes beyond the verbal,
beyond the ‘hey asshole!’. The Gertcha Englishman will
punch you in the face for little more than smirking at his shell
suit.
It is with this realisation that I bid Michael farewell and go
and wait on the corner of Tottenham Court Road and Oxford Street
where my brother is coming to collect me, to take me back to my
normal life. I am hoping to never find myself sleeping on the streets
ever again.
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